In
every county or island there is always one town that stands
out above the rest.
In Tenerife that town is Candelaria directly translated as Candle
Mass.
A
beautiful, clean, deeply religious town hugging the coastline
and steeped in history and fables. Originally called Chimisay
by the Guanche natives its name was changed in 1497 because
of its main claim to fame. The story of the statue of the Virgin
Mary, holding a candle in one arm and the baby Jesus in the
other. 
Around
the year 1390 two Guanche shepherds found the figure (which
stands about half a metre tall) washed up on the beach.
This
was 100 years before the Spanish conquest which thrust Christianity
onto them, so having no idea what she was, but being very afraid
of the strange looking, fully clothed woman they attempted to
destroy her. As the legend goes, one Guanche picked up a rock
to smash her with, but his arm locked and he could not move.
The other Guanche started to saw off her fingers but the wounds
appeared on his hands instead. They realised that this was something
special and decided to take her to their village. On touching
the statue their mobility returned and wounds were healed. They
placed the statue in a cave where it was worshipped in a fashion
until the Spanish Conquest.
In
1404, Diego de Herrera heard about the statue. He had conquered
Lanzarote and decided that the statue needed to be worshipped
by God fearing Christians, not heathens who did not even know
who she was. But the Guanche did not want to give her up and
De Herrera sent his son in the night to steal her and brought
her back to be placed in a church in Lanzarote.
Here legend has it that the statue was found each morning facing
the wall, her back to the congregation and De Herrara began
to realise he may have made a mistake. Soon after, when a terrible
plague hit Lanzarote killing hundreds of people, he finally
conceded and sent the statue back to Tenerife. It stayed in
the cave until 1826 when a terrible storm took her back into
the sea from where she came.
The Spanish had taken over the island by then and were so horrified
at losing her that they commissioned scupltor Fernando Estévez
del Sacramento to carve another exactly the same. This statue
now sits pride of place in the basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria
Church in Candelaria. With special permission you can approach
and touch her or leave flowers at her feet. The cave where the
orginal lived for so long is still there, a building built around
it for protection. Where she had stood is now a bronze effigy
watched over by the figure of San Blas (the patron saint of
shepherds), who is also said to be the saint you need to speak
to if you have a sore throat.
Besides
the main church there is a working monastry of Dominican Friars
which is unfortunatly not open to the public. The plaza itself
is watched over by huge bonze statues of the last nine Guanche
Kings, the wild, raging sea at their backs. These are relatively
new as the original stone statues were moved into the town to
protect them.
Candelaria
is a stunning town with many wonderful fresh fish restaurants,
two small but clean, dark sand beaches, a quaint marina and
some spectacular views of the mountains rearing over the roof
tops. The area is recommended as a therapeutical holiday for
those suffering from several health problems such as asthma
or rheumatism because of the clean air and all year round good
weather. Traditional country life still thrives on the slopes
around Candelaria and there are some fantastic paths for mountain
hiking through beautiful gorges and Canarian Pine woods.
As
you arrive into the main town you come across a large parking
area by the sea, next to which is a small cabin which is the
tourist information office. To learn about the legends, stories
and history of Candelaria I definitely recommend taking the
tours they run several times a day. English is spoken so don't
worry if your Spanish isnt up to scratch. The tour is about
an hour long, is fun and informative and any questions you have
are received and answered with enthusiasm.
If
you fancy visiting Candaleria during one of the many festivals,
the festival of Santa Ana is on the 25th July, also huge holy
days in the area are the 2nd February and the 15th August.
Over
to coming months, we will be building up a picture of Tenerife
so why not visit other areas?
Visit:-
Villaflor
El
Medano
Garachico
La
Laguna
Los Cristianos
Las
Teresitas