Nipping out for some shopping takes on a whole new meaning when faced with a two hour downhill trek. That was the reality in the small village of Jama some 700 metres up above Valle San Lorenzo on the border with Vilaflor. Maybe that’s why most of the houses at Casas Altas are deserted although the freshly restored homes looked magnificent with the Barranco de Chijas and a bounty of plant species spreading out below.

Arona is known for its beaches but the Ayuntamiento (council) is rightly proud of its heritage and beauty and have started a programme of free guided walks to show the other side of the municipality. After dipping into a similar series a few years ago I couldn’t strap my walking shoes on fast enough to enjoy the first of eight walks offered for January with the promise of more to follow.

Meeting at 9am in Valle San Lorenzo I was hoping the full compliment of 25 enthusiasts would have signed up but it was just myself, our council guide Virginia, and three holidaying ladies from Rotterdam, who had seen the publicity at Las Galletas Tourist Information. A steep side road and we were looking up at the small houses perched on the lip of the hill, the sun was poking through two volcanic peaks and the tranquil sounds of nature soon had us moving.

I do a lot of walks but rarely have the advantage of a local guide. Virginia is from Valle San Lorenzo and a keen bird spotter, the high pitched shrill overhead was quickly identified as a Buzzard. The walks are aimed at locals and tourists and the guide’s knowledge comes in several languages including Spanish and English.

As the road changed to a track and then a rough rocky path the upward climb began. A chunky metal water pipe headed up with us but about half way up we found a crossing point of several old concrete channels that were gushing fast with cold water, an amazing work of skill and dedication that stretched down into the town. Even the ugly ducklings of the plant world have a story to tell and the cochineal beetle had left its white scale on many of the cacti, a quick rub revealed the rich crimson colouring that was exported to dye clothes in mainland Europe.

By the time the Jama houses loomed large above us we had been introduced to garlic flowers, mastic trees, Pistacia Atlantica and many more. The most restored house boasted a lovingly tended garden with a well inside and another near the partly re-constructed barn. And how about this as a bonus… a deep, cool cave split into chambers with a long table set out for relaxing away from the high summer sun. Walking inside the dusty shells of the neglected dwellings, I could see daylight through the floorboards of one. Thankfully the next one had a hewn stone floor and a window with a large sill to rest on which afforded inspiring views of the valley.

The wider area offered us a fragrant Rosemary bush. Virginia told us that it was often used locally to make honey. Suddenly my cheese rolls seemed very inadequate. After a short rest we started the walk down. Nature had a colourful rival as paragliders swirled in the air currents on their own graceful descent. It’s always quicker on the downward route but we made plenty of stops to admire flowers and plants, questions are encouraged on these walks and the pace is leisurely, the walk took just over four hours. Back in Valle San Lorenzo we went our separate ways but the Dutch ladies had plenty of good things to report to less active fellow holiday makers and to spread back home.

Here are the walks for the remainder of January, you must register (for insurance) at any Arona Tourist Information Office, or call (0034) 922761600, or via the website www.arona.travel

•  Tuesday 24^th – Montaña Guaza
• Wednesday 25^th – Arona Casco to Altavista
• Thursday 25^th – Barranco Chijas
• Saturday 28^th – Arona to Ifonche
• Tuesday 31^st – Malpais de Rasca

There should be more walks in the following months depending on the response. Publicity had only just been launched before this first walk. Arona is well worth getting to know and this free initiative is waiting to introduce you to a new landscape.

Title: Ratha Yatra Indian Festival
Location: Next to Hotel Conquistador, Playa de Las Americas
Description: Traditionally the Festival of the Chariots, this will be a multi cultural fiesta organised by the Indian and Canarian communities. Features food, clothes, theatre, art, and much more. The Indian community has reached out to all other communities in Tenerife and their events are always colourful, musical and fun. Runs from 3pm to 11pm on Saturday and 10am to 11pm on Sunday.
Start Date: 2010-07-10
End Date: 2010-07-11

It is said that the more things change, the more they stay the same. It’s also true, that no matter how much we are separated by time, space or culture,  throughout history humans have invented and enjoyed telling the same kind of  legends. Tales of giants have been told down the ages across Europe, Latin America, much of Asia, India…

The 1760 publication ‘The Modern Part of an Universal History: From the Earliest Account of Time’  is a collection of essays by authors of the period. This passage, which describes  the memoirs of adventurer Sir Edmund Scorey, illustrates that  in long ago Tenerife, the Guanches also told tall tales of giant ancestors.  And according to the writer’s description of the desecration of the ‘corpse’, yesterday’s travellers showed no more respect for the culture of others than many do today.

The Guanches of Tenerife, in particular, were well-made, handsome, and robust; nay, in general, of a gigantic stature. There was, in Scorey’s time, the skull of one of them to be seen in the sepulchre of the Guimar kings, which had eighty teeth, and the skeleton of the body measuring fifteen feet; but Scorey does not pretend that he had seen it; and it is probable it was little more than the tradition of the natives, who might have such tales of their ancestors as are common among the vulgar of all countries.

Several gentlemen being one day employed in hunting a rabbit, the little animal run into a cave, and was pursued by one of the company, who, upon entering in a hurry, was terrified with the sight of a corpse of a gigantic stature. His cries alarmed the company; but, before their arrival, recollecting that it was a sepulchral cave of the Guanches, his fears were dissipated. Upon this, he cut off a piece of skin from the breast of the body, which your author had seen, and affirms was softer, smoother, tougher, stronger and more pliable, than the best-prepared kid-skin which probably was no other than the goat-fleece in which they wrapped the embalmed bodies.

We are the more confirmed in this opinion, because a sensible gentleman of the faculty, after residing twenty years in the island, had, with the utmost difficulty, access to the sepulchral caves. This is a favour scarce ever granted, and not attempted without leave, but at the risk of one’s life. He obtained permission, and was even conducted to the tombs, in consequence of the esteem of the people, which he had gained by several services he had done for them in the way of his profession. The following story, which he relates, seems, however, to corroborate the testimony of Scorey.

Related:

Tenerife Time Travel – El Pico Del Teide

Title: OST Christmas Concert
Location: Santa Cruz port esplanade
Link out: Click here
Description: Tenerife Symphony Orchestra round off christmas night with their annual open air FREE concert. Rousing standards from the highly acclaimed orchestra.
Starts at 10pm, ends late with a spectacular display of fireworks.
Date: 2009-12-25