A Christmas Cocktail In Santa Cruz And La Laguna – Hold The Ice

Trying hard not to step on a shepherd or reduce the wise men to 2, I picked my way through the large free standing nativity or belen (above) at the Casa de Los Capitanes Generales. Better known as the Tourist Information Centre just off Plaza del Adelantado, the historic courtyard under traditional Canarian wooden balconies was a subtle and unexpected bonus on my search for Christmas presence.

My original plans had melted away, popping up a day after the intended 3rd December opening of a temporary ice rink in Santa Cruz, I found the structure still at the building stage in Plaza de España. The lady in the Information Office said it should be ready tomorrow and laughed with a shrug. Oh well plenty more to see, first stop the Cabildo (Tenerife government) building, just a few steps away, for their annual belen (above) produced by the Museum of History and Anthropology. It has to be said it has got smaller over the years but is still a delight to walk around and was pulling in a steady stream of visitors. The intricate detail and great reverence shown to the Christmas story is very clear, full marks to designer Francisco Delgado Rodriguez, and best of all it’s free with a collection box for donations. This year’s charity is Hijas de la Caridad de San Vicente de Paul, a religious order formed in 1660 and dedicated to good works in the community.

Feeling suitably uplifted I felt like trying out another popular belen, this time the Caja Canarias bank headquarters in Plaza Patriotismo. The Christmas theme was hard to miss with big white shells on the outside of the building but that slightly tacky look was soon eclipsed as I stepped into the display hall. This is a big scale belen artesanal, Bethlehem seen from above as a working village either side of a mountain range. A small river runs through it and a little pond even has live fish in it. The attention to detail is amazing, from the baker putting his bread in and out of the oven to the cobbler raising his hammer and even a school of card players under a tree. For extra effect the lights dim every few minutes to give a night view with the pin pricks from houses giving a warm lived in feel. This too was free but there was no collection.

La Laguna was calling and first stop from the tram was the Museo de Ciencia y El Cosmos to see the Father Christmas iceberg. It was not my day for ice, this was just a cushion sized blob of ice on a stand, I nearly missed it, but there is a collection point underneath for children to leave letters to Papa Noel. The ice blob still can’t chill my enthusiasm for this museum, a mere 1.50 euros by paying by Bono bus ticket, get the full low down here.

The information centre gave me a boost and a tour around the back street rewarded me with some joyous window dressing. Some people really pull out the stops to make a display for Christmas, but back in Santa Cruz nature trumped them all again with the many displays of festive poinsettias in full bloom. The chicharro fish was in a sea of these red and yellow plants, they even have their own national day, 12 December. With more live music, night lighting displays and that ice rink to come, Santa Cruz and La Laguna are always worth a shopping trip, especially at Christmas time.


Cabildo Belen – daily 9 am to 3 pm and 4 pm to 9.30 pm, except 24 & 31 December just morning session, 25 December, 1 & 6 January just afternoon session.

Caja Canarias Belen ““ Monday to Saturday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 5 pm to 8.30 pm, Sunday 10 am to 1 .30 pm.


Ding Dung Merrily On High

Aah what a lovely nativity scene, there’s the manger, the shepherds, the bloke having a poo, the wise men ““ whoa rewind, did I really see that? I don’t care how many sprouts he had, that’s just rude and untraditional. Well you are wrong on both counts, El Caganer is a fine old Catalan tradition that is seen as an integral part of any festive nativity.

Originally it was a shepherd or peasant delivering his unique present, and it represented the regeneration of the soil and the natural circle of nature. In recent years the tradition has grown into a more fun event with celebrities squatting in place of the peasant. As Catalans travelled they took their cheeky habit with them, El Caganer has been spotted in Tenerife, La Villa commercial centre in La Orotava is a good place to look.

Every year new faces pop out to join the ranks of the infamous, President Obama has been honoured and this year HRH The Queen has briefly stepped down from the throne to join in. I have spared Her Majesty’s blushes here, I don’t want to be greeted on my next UK visit by Beefeaters ready to make mincemeat out of me. Don’t think it’s just outsiders that get the treatment, the Spanish politicians and royalty are also shown doing what comes naturally.

Surely there must be outrage and disgust at these festive interlopers, far from it. In 2005 Barcelona council decided there was no place for El Caganer in the modern age and banned it from their official nativity, there were howls of protest, the council relented and the campaigners were flushed with success.

You can buy any El Caganer at www.caganer.com all you have to do is log on, snigger, snigger.


Cabildo Nativity

Title: Cabildo Nativity
Location: Santa Cruz, near Plaza de España
Description: Tenerife government HQ invites you to pop in and see the spectacular nativity scene in their entrance hall. All the ingredients are here, the manger, shepherds and animals on the hills and the light show helps to tell the tale.
Open 9am to 3pm and 4pm to 9pm. FREE, but please drop some money in the collection for local charities.
Start Date: 2009-12-01
End Date: 2010-01-06